Tom Curley in Salthill
Alligator clouds snapped at the brittle sky over
Galway Bay. Ribbons of mid-morning sun stole around the menacing jaws – then
the rain spilled down, light and heavy. June was bursting out all over – but
not in the same likeness as we know it from the Carousel musical. Out on the
choppy bay, a dark grey battleship lay static – like a redundant trawler,
chained for keeps to the harbour wall – its fishing days now distant waters.
The vessel, there for a day or two – was on coastal watch for enemy approach.
The
fifteenth Salthill Air Show would soon be blazing off, in roughly four hours
from now. The main seafront thoroughfare and Salthill Promenade – for countless
summers, the meander of memories and sunshine for multitudes of tourists – was gaining
the momentum, in both directions, to that of the March to the Bastille. The
expected one hundred thousand spectators were arriving from many parts and from
overseas, eager to watch, many, for the first time, the air-raid symphony.
Surrounding guesthouses, hotels and others, deep into Galway City had hoisted
their ‘no vacancy’ signs.
Prior
to opening time, Eilish Hopkins, proprietor of Lonergan’s renowned seafront bar
and lounge in Salthill, was, with a little help from friends, corralling her
heavy bench tables on the wide footpath outside the premises. Gathering foot
soldiers were taking their rest, soon to sample the Sunday spirit. Later, on
sliding back the door bolts, the bar was quickly filled to its every
old-fashioned nook and corner. Eilish and staff were summoned into hurried
action, as always they were ready and willing. Local man, Joe Dolan (who
assures he is “no relation” – and cannot sing a note) has attended every Air
Show since the start fifteen years ago. Since then, he says the crowds have
steadily increased, its popularity has become worldwide. Joe expected to view
the Show – or most of it – from the two large frontal windows of Lonergan’s –
looking out over the broad bay and the Clare hills shouldering behind. A true
picture indeed – where sometimes three ships pass by night. Even Picasso might
care to imitate. Eilish – who has shaken many a coloured hand and greeted
many a foreign face since taking control of the till eleven years ago – states
that the Air Show is by far the biggest annual entertainment and commercial
event in Salthill. In crowd terms she observes it would compare with, if not
exceed, a full month of tourists to the famous seaside resort. Connacht Final
day in Pearse Stadium is, naturally, a major boost for the area – but in crowd
numbers there is a long kick of a ball between the two events, the popular
Eilish stresses.
Tom
Killoran of Killoran’s long-standing bar – only a dividing wall between the two
friendly seaside taverns – was of similar voice. By far this is the biggest
singular event in the Galway tourist calendar he reminds. Of the eighty
thousand plus sightseers descending on the area, in one parachute drop Tom
jokes: “Between us (the alehouses) we will reach them all, even if they are
outside.”
As
Galway were depriving Leitrim of yet another Connacht Final appearance
– and Limerick and Tipperary, taking their hurls to each other for the third
time in as many weeks in passionate pursuit of Munster hurling fame – all eyes
and heads turn sharply from the large screen on Killoran’s inner wall – and
dashed for the crowded door to catch the throw-in of the fifteenth Salthill Air
Show – that had just climbed into the skies.
This
Show heralded the first appearance in Ireland of the top United States
Demonstration Squadron, the Thunderbirds in their F15 Fighter Jets, which stole
the show. From beyond the horizon, these magnificent men in their flying
machines raced over Galway Bay in sublime and planned formation. For three
hours that were to follow – with scant break – these machines and their
daring pilots dominated the Western skies with an awe-inspiring exhibition of
spectacular manoeuvres and knitted aerial patterns, in both group formation and
solo action. A power pack statement of bravery, defiance – majestic beyond most
understanding. If Hemingway was there at his bench, he might create a novel,
fittingly entitled ‘ Airs and Graces’.
Also
performing in the day’s celebration of aerial acrobatics were the Royal
Netherlands Airforce, the United States Air Learjets, the Irish Parachute
Display Team, the Black Knights and the Aer Arann 2 Excl Display Unit. These
heroic craftsmen of the air thrilled the thousands of spectators who watched
from the promenade below and from the windows and doors of nearby seaside
guesthouses, hotels and local residences. The show was visible for many miles
along the Connemara coast and many parts of Galway city.
As
a backdrop to the air extravaganza, the crowds were treated, at sea level, to a
colourful flotilla of craft, including a Naval Courvette. Taking command of the
seafront carpark, the Irish Army, in all its forty shades of green, presented
an absorbing display of its armoury, including machinery, guns, and bomb
disposal units. Army personnel were on hand to freely discuss manoeuvres and to
take queries. The Irish Red Cross and Civil Defence were also on show to
advance their valuable wares and capabilities.
As
the skies returned to their celestial path and the last ground helicopter
lifted to join the homeward stretch, a further, but unexpected, drama unfolded.
The ongoing cheering and clapping of the crowd quickly turned to astonishment,
when, approximately from a height of one hundred and fifty feet, a door became
detached from the airborne machine and hurtled – like a free -lying bird caught
by a vagrant sniper – to the crowded beach. In the frantic scramble to safety
that followed a number of the onlookers were knocked to the ground. The Gardai,
Civil Defence and two standby ambulances were quickly in attendance. Three people who sustained back and
neck injuries were taken to a City hospital. Their injuries were described as
not serious. There are no certainties to the evening of a day. The helicopter
immediately returned to ground and transferred to Galway Airport for extensive
technical examination by the Irish Aviation Authority. As part of the show the
helicopter in question – an E.C. 135 was based for the day on the promenade on
public display. For a number of hours before the Air Show, a group of Galway
anti-war protestors known as the Galway Alliance Against War (GAAW) held a
peace march to Salthill, having earlier held a vigil outside Galway Cathedral. The
protest culminated with the release of one hundred red balloons – to the
great delight of the many children in sight. Like Tribunals, detractors will
never go away. Air Shows are not signatures for war.
For
first-time watchers, the Salthill Air Show will be seen as a marvellous
occasion, a visual expression of technology and science beyond the grasp of our
domestic tools. Yet, despite its enormous popularity, and high entertainment
value – for free – its future lies in the balance. High operating costs
and a minority of opposing groups could militate against its survival. Brian
McGrath, Chief Organiser, stresses that the demise of the Salthill Air Show,
which brings a forceful international dimension to the area, would be a severe
setback to Galway. The tens of thousands who annually gather in the City of the
Tribes to witness this spectacle are solid testament to that. The skies show no
brighter stars.
